Some people think a German luxury sedan should be fast, handle harshly and just generally be a big race car. I don't. I think a German luxury sedan should make you feel bad for not dressing up to drive it; you should want to wear a tie when you're behind the wheel. It should not only be comfortable, it should be composed. For me, driving a car like this isn't about screaming through the countryside like an idiot, it's about driving down the road comfortably in a car that's ready for any conditions that come your way.

With this as the benchmark, the Mercedes E-Class succeeds.

I tested the all-wheel-drive E350 4Matic during an icy, dark and dreary Chicago week. It performed very well in these conditions, including a variety of short city trips and a long, backcountry drive to some ski trails. It had its share of quirks — notably some odd steering personality, as well as some lag in acceleration — but overall I think it's one of the better luxury vehicles I've driven.

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• E350 In the Market